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In the mirror, I can see myself in oversized gilded pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Children relax in a stone basin pretending to be ocean creatures, meanwhile adjacent rests a talking pea in a showcase, next to a towering stack of bedding. It embodies the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), one of the 1800s highly cherished writers. I'm visiting Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the southern region of this Nordic country, to explore Andersen’s timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his passing, and to find a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the local exhibition space honoring the storyteller, incorporating his original residence. A museum representative states that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but Thumbelina were missing. For visitors who visit Odense looking for fairytale wonder, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of the city center, diverting a primary street, made it possible to reimagine how the renowned native could be honored. An international design contest granted Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the innovative curatorial vision at the core of the design. The unique wooden museum with connected spiral spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we avoid discussing the author, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with wit, satire and perspective,” says the expert. The outdoor spaces take this approach: “It’s a garden for explorers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to make you feel small,” he says, a challenge accomplished by strategic landscaping, experimenting with height, size and multiple meandering routes in a surprisingly compact space.

The Author's Influence

He authored multiple memoirs and often changed his story. The exhibition embraces this concept to heart; frequently the views of his acquaintances or snippets of letters are displayed to gently question the writer's personal account of events. “The writer is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” explains the representative. The result is a compelling swift exploration of Andersen’s life and art, thought processes and most popular stories. This is provocative and whimsical, for grown-ups and kids, with a bonus basement make-believe land, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Discovering the City

Back in the physical town, the small city of the municipality is delightful, with historic pathways and old wooden houses painted in bright colours. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the road indicators feature the author with his signature top hat, bronze footmarks give a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a art walk too. Annually in August this commitment peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which celebrates the author’s legacy through visual arts, dance, theatre and melodies.

Recently, the seven-day festival had 500 shows, the majority were free. While visiting this place, I come across artistic acrobats, ghoulish monsters and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to feminist spoken-word pieces and witness an amazing late-night performance including athletic artists lowering from the municipal structure and hanging from a crane. Upcoming events in the coming months are lectures, family art workshops and, broadening the storytelling legacy further than the writer, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

Each wonderful enchanted locations need a fortress, and Fyn contains numerous historic homes and manor houses around the area

Cycling and Exploration

Like other Danish regions, bicycles are the ideal method to get about in the city and a “bike path” winds through the urban core. From my accommodation, I ride to the public harbour-side swimming pool, then beyond the city for a route around Stige Island, a small island connected by causeway to the larger island. Town dwellers relax with food here in the evening, or enjoy a quiet hour catching fish, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

In the city, I eat at a local eatery, where the menu is based on Andersen themes and tales. The poem Denmark, My Native Land appears when I visit, and owner Nils Palmqvist shares excerpts, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice commonplace in my visit, the local residents love a yarn and it feels as though sharing tales is always on the menu here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a fortress, and the island boasts numerous historic homes and estates around the area. Taking day trips from the city, I explore Egeskov Palace, Europe’s best-preserved historic fortress. While much of it are open to visitors, Egeskov is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his spouse, the princess. I ponder if she can feel a small legume through a pile of {mattresses